When did purchasing a hair dryer become a lesson in physics? While on a recent search for a replacement blow-dryer, I've discovered what seems to be the industry's latest favorite marketing strategy: inscrutable terminology. Words like "ionic," "tourmaline," and "infrared hair dryer" decorate even the most pared-back packaging, and by exposure alone, we assume these must be desirable traits. Do these terms even translate to actual quality? "High-quality dryers generally incorporate advanced dryer components, heating, and airflow technology to enable this," says hair expert, Ming Tran. Multiple heat and speed settings can help, as can ionic, ceramic, and tourmaline technology, which serve to customize the drying experience.
But how can you telljust from the packaging which type of dryer will workbest for your hair? That's where Tran and other hair experts come in.
Meet the Experts
- Heather Coughlin is the director of product development at Amika, a professional haircare beauty brand. She is based in Brooklyn.
- Ming Tran is the director of operations at T3 Micro. She previously worked as a senior product manager for the brand and is based in Los Angeles.
- Paulette Heller is the vice president of Marketing at Conair. She has been with the brand for over 35 years and is based in New York City.
Keep scrolling for your crash course in the language of hair dryers and how to choose the right one for you.
Tourmaline
Let's start with what the heck "tourmaline" means. We see this word on dryers, both drugstore and high-end, but what exactly does a dryer need it for?According to Conair vice president of marketing, Paulette Heller, tourmalineis a semiprecious gemstone that's crushed into a fine powder and built into the internal components of a hair dryer.
When this powder is heated, cooled, or pressurized, it generates an electrical charge, emitting both negative ions and far-infrared heat, says Amika's director of product development, Heather Coughlin. "When used within a dryer (or any other hot tool), the far-infrared heat locks in hair's moisture, while the negative ions seal the cuticle to deliver shiny, frizz-free results," she says.
Byrdie Tip
Be sure all tourmaline hot tools are made with tourmaline technology and not just a tourmaline coating. A coating will flake off over time, while the real deal stays effective for longer, meaning it protects your hair for longer, too.
Ceramic
Compounded ceramic is another common addition to the structure of premium-quality hair dryers, says Heller. The benefit of ceramic is that it heats up quickly and evenly across its surface and generates infrared heat. This means it works to gently dry hair from the inside out and protectsit from excess damage. Translation: If you see the word "ceramic" in the product description, consider it a positive.
Infrared
Infrared heat is radiated heat, so it warms things from the inside out, meaning it's gentle but still powerful and a solid choice for those with dry, damaged, or color-treated hair. The downside, however, is cost. Infrared products tend to be costlier than standard heat products but they are said to reduce drying time (so they're a worthy investment if you waste a lot of time drying your hair).
Key Takeaways
- Tourmaline emits negative ions to seal the cuticle against frizz and infrared heat to lock in moisture.
- Ceramic components heat up quickly and evenly to gently dry hair while protectingit from damage.
- Infrared heat dries the hair from the inside out, effectively reducing drying time without damaging strands.
Wattage
The word "wattage" always reminds us of high school science class, whichmakes us immediately want to disengage. But according to Coughlin, it's not that scary. "A dryer's wind power is measured in watts, so the higher the number, the quicker the drying time," she says. If you have coarse or thick hair, opt for a dryer with 1800W or more. "Fine and short hair can still get great results using a dryer with much less airflow," says Coughlin.
AC vs. DC
When you see labels like "AC" or "DC" on a dryer, it refers to current. "An alternating current (AC) motor tends to be the professional choice, as it is typically stronger and hotter than a dryer utilizing a direct current (DC) motor," Coughlin explains.
That said, a DC dryer is great for everyday users because it's much more lightweight. While it won't last as long as an AC,Coughlin says this will not affect the average at-home user the way it might a stylist, who uses their dryer all day, every day. In other words, if you're a regular consumer, feel free to go DC.
Brushless Motor
"Brushless motor" is a lesser-known term, and that's because the technology is relatively new. "Most dryer motors use carbon brushes that wear out over time, causing the motor to stop working," says Heller. By contrast, brushless motors use magnets and electronics to drive the motor, extending the life of the dryer 10 times longer than AC motor dryers.
"This motor type delivers the best of both worlds—it’s lightweight, whisper-quiet, and delivers a strong airflow and maximum heat for quick and frizz-free results," adds Coughlin. "Dryers that utilize this motor type are more expensive; however, the lifetime of the dryer is often five to 10 years versus the standard one to two years."
Ionic
Ionic is another word that reminds me of high school physics. But Heller breaks it down like this: Ions are invisible particles that are present all around us, but positively charged ions create noticeable problems for our hair, like static electricity, frizz, and flyaways.
What ionicstyling tools do is emit negative ions to attract positive ones and neutralize them. "When negative ions neutralize positive ions, they eliminate static electricity," she says. Ionic hot tools can also go by "nano-ionic" or "tourmaline ionic," but don't worry, they all do the same thing: reduce frizz and flyaways and boost radiance.
Factors to Consider
When shopping for different hair dryers, you should keep a few additional factors in mind. Make sure you understand the attachments available (and what they do), the range of settings available, and the durability of the brand you have your eye on.
Attachments
When narrowing down your search, consider the different attachments hair dryers come with. Attachments help you achieve different looks more easily than blowing your hair dry with the standard nozzle.
These are the different hair dryer attachments that you may find included with your dryer:
- Concentrators: These thin nozzles do just what their name implies—concentrate the stream of air to a thin surface area.
- Diffusers: These attachments are go-to's for those with curly hair because they reduce the intensity of airflow.
- Picks or Combs: These attachments can be used to create volume and are available in many styles and sizes.
Heat and Speed Settings
Take a peek at the heat settings on your prospective hair dryers. You should always blow-dry at the lowest possible temperature and keep things moving so as not to damage your hair. This is especially important if you have thin hair as you don't want to purchase a hair dryer with a low setting that's still a bit too rough on your hair.
Bonus points if your dream hair dryer has a cold button. A burst of cool air can help to seal the cuticle which leads to extra shine and a locked-in style.
Byrdie Tip
Always use a heat protectant when blow-drying your hair. Using a heat protectant will not only help seal in moisture but can also fend off frizz.
Durability
It's a no-brainer that you want your pricey hair dryer to last more than a year. However, it's not likely for a brand to come out and say they want you to buy their less-than-lasting product. For durability, your best bet is to turn to your peers and check out reviews from trusted sources (like us!).
The lifespan of your hair dryer will depend on how often you use it and how careful you are with storing it. On average, you can expect your hair dryer to last anywhere from two to seven years or from 600 to 1000 hours of use.
Choosing a Hair Dryer Based on Your Hair Type
You can purchase the fanciest high-wattage ionic blow-dryer on the market, but if you aren't shopping with your hair type in mind then you may not end up with the results you're envisioning.
Based on your hair type, these are the types of hair dryers you should put on your wish list:
- Thick Hair: Go for a high-wattage tourmaline dryer. (Consider weight, too, as thicker hair takes longer to blow-dry.)
- Thin Hair: Pick a hair dryer with lower heat intensity like ceramic or porcelain models.
- Curly Hair: Choose an ionic hair dryer with a diffuser attachment.
The Final Takeaway
The key to finding a high-quality hair dryer starts with understanding your hair type and drying habits, and then matching the technology to those needs. Typically, what sets the high-quality dryers apart from the rest is an airstream that's evenly heated, which allows you to dry your hair quickly without overheating certain sections and damaging them. But don't confuse price with quality. Often, it's attachments and design components that drive up the price of luxury items rather than innovation.